As discussed in Part 1 of the Cool Broad “Beautiful Skin” series, the three most important things you can do to ensure your skin will look its best are:

1) Exfoliation
2) Hydration
3) Protection

We discussed Exfoliation in Part I. In this post, we’re going to delve into Hydration.

Hydration can be defined as the amount of water found in something (in our case, skin). To hydrate, or moisturize, is to restore or maintain fluid balance. When skin is properly hydrated, it is smooth and plump and somewhat bouncy to the touch. When it is not, it can be tight, flaky and dull.

Prevailing wisdom dictates that everyone, no matter her skin type, should moisturize - even those with oily skin. Though oil can help the skin retain moisture, oily skin does not necessarily mean hydrated skin. I have very oily skin, especially on my T-zone, and was shocked when my aesthetician told me that my noise (the oiliest appendage I have) was conflicted (meaning dry and flaky and oily at the same time). Who knew a nose could be so neurotic?

When your skin is dry, your glands produce more oil to coat and protect it. So if you have oily skin and refrain from moisturizing, you could be making the situation worse. The glands will work harder to produce more oil, which will result in more shine. By moisturizing your skin every day, you are protecting your skin and minimizing oil secretion.

What moisturizing can do: Make your skin look plumper, healthier and smoother. Skin that is moisturized properly has been known to age slower than moisture-deprived skin and is better protected against environmental influences. Also, as we age, our skin becomes less effective at regulating the skin’s water balance, so it becomes even more important to include moisturization in our daily routine.

What moisturizing can’t do: Make you a supermodel. As beneficial as it is to keep your skin well hydrated, it can’t turn back the clock or miraculously make you look like the 16-year-old on the cover of Victoria’s Secret. However, over time dry skin will lose its elasticity and tone and can become dull and older looking. So, when your skin isn’t hydrated, wrinkles will appear more pronounced than when your skin is hydrated properly. This is a superficial and temporary effect, but a nice one nonetheless. Moisturizers won’t tackle underlying issues that can age skin (unless it’s formulated with ingredients specifically to address those issues).

Speaking of underlying issues…dry skin is usually caused by one of the following:

1. Environmental factors (sun exposure, wind, extreme cold, low humidity due to drying heaters)
2. Health (lack of vital, essential fatty acids in diet – often a result of eating “low-fat”)
3. Smoking and excessive intake of alcoholic and caffeinated beverages
4. Genetics (sometimes it just is what it is)
5. Hormones (i.e. loss of estrogen)
6. Overcleansing or the use of drying or irritating skin-care products (i.e. bar soap, toners)
7. Stress
8. Aging

According to SmartSkinCare.com, there are two ways to hydrate the skin: from the inside and from the outside.

“Moisturizing from the inside means keeping the body well hydrated. When dehydrated, the body preserves the water supply to critical organs, such as the brain and the heart, but “cuts off water” to peripheral organs such as skin. Therefore, keeping the body well hydrated is an important part of keeping your skin well moisturized. Adequate fluid intake is key. However, just as important is to avoid foods and beverages that cause excess water loss.

Moisturizing from the outside is based on proper use of moisturizing creams and lotions. Unfortunately, most moisturizing products are ineffective because their moisturizing action lasts less than two hours after the application. If you, like most people, moisturize from one to three times a day, then most of the time your skin will still be dry. Of course, you can moisturize every hour or two, but most people find such a regimen unsustainable. Besides, excessive application of creams and lotions can clog pores and promote acne. We recommend using long-lasting moisturizers, which will keep your skin hydrated throughout the day even if applied infrequently. The good news is that even though long-lasting moisturizers are a lot more effective, they usually do not cost more.”

Choosing the right moisturizer

Paula Begon, syndicated columnist and author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me and The Beauty Bible, says traditional moisturizers with varying degrees of emollient bases are great for someone with truly dry skin, but only if they are loaded with ingredients that reduce environmental damage (antioxidants and sunscreen), help make healthier skin cells (cell-communicating ingredients), and enhance or repair the intercellular matrix. Women with combination to oily skin should approach most moisturizers with extreme caution. That’s because so many moisturizers are in either a lotion or cream form which can be very good for dry skin, but can lead to a host of problems for those with oily, combination, and blemish-prone or blackhead-prone skin type.

Typically, people with oily skin will look for a moisturizer that’s oil free. Oil-free moisturizers will keep pores from getting clogged and won’t exacerbate acne. People with “truly dry skin” will benefit from a more emollient moisturizer (one with oil). As with any skincare product, there are countless formulations of moisturizers available ranging from inexpensive to the “I just paid the same amount for a 1 oz. jar of cream as I did for my monthly car payment” range. A licensed aesthetician will be able to identify your skin type as well as the current condition of your skin. Only then will you be able to choose the right moisturizer - one that will hydrate your skin properly as well as address specific issues you may be experiencing (i.e. redness, fine lines, age spots, etc.)

My picks

I have oily skin. My T-zone is often shiny and I have decent-sized pores on my nose. My mother promises me that I’ll age well because, according to her, people with oily skin don’t wrinkle as much…but that has yet to be determined. I’ll let you know if it works out for me.

After cleansing in the morning, I apply Dermalogica’s Skin Hydrating Booster (a concentrated serum) followed by an oil-free daily moisturizer with SPF. For me, Skin Hydrating Booster is one of those products that’ll cause me to push the panic button if I run out and have to wait a few days before I can get my hands on more. It’s one of Dermalogica’s concentrated boosters (which are incredibly versatile and ideal when dealing with changes in climate, hormonal imbalance or lifestyle) and contains Hyaluronic Acid (which holds up to 1000 times its weight in water for hydration and improved elasticity). It makes my skin plump and dewy.

I currently follow Skin Hydrating Booster with Neutrogena’s Oil-Free Moisture with SPF 15 which is just a standard, good ‘ol daily moisturizer you can get at the grocery store. In the summer, I might up the ante to a moisturizer with a higher SPF.

Click here if you need a recommendation for a great place to buy skincare products and stay tuned for Part 3 of the Cool Broad “Beautiful Skin” series when we discuss skin Protection.

~tcb

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