In Part 1 and Part 2 of the Cool Broad “Beautiful Skin” series, we discussed two of the three most important things you can do to that ensure your skin will look its best over your lifetime: Exfoliation and Hydration.

In this post, we’re going discuss the third and final topic of the series: Protection.

The Sun
I love the sun! But, it’s no secret that wearing sunscreen everyday is critically important to keep your skin healthy and prevent premature aging. The reason: the sun’s ultraviolet radiation.

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, there are two types of ultraviolet radiation: UVA and UVB. Research shows that 90 percent of wrinkles are caused by the sun’s UVA rays, which penetrate the skin more deeply and are associated with collagen breakdown. UVA rays also exacerbate the carcinogenic effects of UVB rays, the chief culprit behind sunburn (skin damage that can eventually lead to skin cancer), and are increasingly seen as a cause of skin cancer on their own.

The lesson: Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (one that blocks both UVA and UVB rays).

What about SPF?
The Skin Cancer Foundation also offers this analysis of Sun Protection Factor (SPF):

“SPF — or Sun Protection Factor — is a measure of a sunscreen’s ability to prevent UVB from damaging the skin. Here’s how it works: If it takes 20 minutes for your unprotected skin to start turning red, using an SPF 15 sunscreen theoretically prevents reddening 15 times longer — about five hours.

Another way to look at it is in terms of percentages: SPF 15 blocks approximately 93 percent of all incoming UVB rays; SPF 30 blocks 97 percent; and SPF 50 blocks 99 percent. These may seem like negligible differences, but if you are light-sensitive, or have a history of skin cancer, those extra percentages will make a difference. And as you can see, no sunscreen can block all UV rays.

But there are problems with the SPF model: First, no sunscreen, regardless of strength, should be expected to stay effective longer than two hours without reapplication. Second, “reddening” of the skin is a reaction to UVB rays alone and tells you little about what UVA damage you may be getting. Plenty of damage can be done without the red flag of sunburn being raised.”

Chances are, your daily moisturizer (tinted or not) has an SPF of 15, which is sufficient for everyday activities with a few minutes here and there in the sun. However, if you work outside or spend a lot of time outdoors, you’ll need a stronger, water-resistant sunscreen. These types of sunscreens, however, may not be the ones you’ll choose for everyday use. They probably contain ingredients that are more physical in nature (see below), will be stickier, and might not work as well under makeup.

Chemical vs. Physical Sunblocks
Typically sunscreens use some combination of chemical and physical sunblocks to provide broad-spectrum protection. According to Dr. Andrew Weil, a world-renowned leader and pioneer in the field of integrative medicine as well as a best-selling author, some of the chemicals used, specifically PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) and oxybenzone, can be irritating. However PABA is no longer used as widely as it once was. Newer products containing Parsol 1789 are highly effective and appear less irritating.

Sunscreens containing physical (or mechanical) sunblocks such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (inert, opaque compounds that block almost the entire spectrum of the sun’s damaging rays) tend to cause less irritation. If you’re highly sensitive to chemical sunscreens, you can also use zinc oxide alone. Once available only in chalky white (think that cute lifeguard in the ‘80s), it’s now available in a colorless form.

Antioxidants in Sunscreen
There is also growing research showing that topically applied antioxidants can help protect from sun damage. According to Paula Begon, syndicated columnist and author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter without me and the Beauty Bible, when antioxidants are used in combination with sunblocks, they are highly effective in increasing the protective value of a well-formulated sunscreen.

“Vitamins (especially E and C) have been the topic of several studies on the photoprotective effects of antioxidants when combined with sunscreens (such as in Citrix sunscreen - shown below). It appears that both vitamins C and E have unique abilities to boost the effectiveness of active sunscreen ingredients, with vitamin E proving to be better at boosting UVB protection while vitamin C demonstrated stronger protective effects against UVA radiation.

Other antioxidants that have shown protective promise for use in sunscreen formulations include vitamin A, selenium, resveratrol, natural and synthetic astaxanthin, and canosic acid [a component of rosemary]. If, however, the antioxidants are listed after the fragrance or preservatives, don’t bother, that means there isn’t enough in the product to benefit skin.”

Common myths*
Wearing sunscreen can cause vitamin D deficiency. No studies have shown that sunscreens cause vitamin D deficiency. Also, vitamin D is available in dietary supplements and foods such as salmon and eggs, as well as enriched milk and orange juice.

If it’s cold or cloudy outside, you don’t need sunscreen. This is not true. Up to 40 percent of the sun’s ultraviolet radiation reaches the earth on a completely cloudy day. This misperception often leads to the most serious sunburns, because people spend all day outdoors with no protection from the sun.

80 percent of your sun exposure comes as a child, so it’s too late to do anything now. It appears that this universally promoted idea was based largely on a misinterpretation. A recent multi-center study showed that we get less than 25 percent of our total sun exposure by age 18. In fact, it is men over the age of 40 who spend the most time outdoors, and get the highest annual doses of UV rays. And since adult Americans are living longer and spending more leisure time outdoors, preventing ongoing skin damage will continue to be an important part of a healthy lifestyle.

*From the Skin Cancer Foundation (www.skincancer.org)

The Latest and Greatest
There’s been big buzz about sunscreens that contain the ingredient Mexoryl (available in Europe and Canada for years, but only recently approved by the FDA for use in the U.S.
Shown right - La Roche Posay Anthelios sunscreen contains Mexoryl). Some argue that the ingredient has shown the highest efficacy in blocking UVA rays. Others claim that Mexoryl is simply another broad-spectrum sunscreen, similar to Parsol 1789 (which is widely available in American products).

Sue Chung, the Health and Beauty expert at HeathCentral.com, suggests that Mexoryl does boast an advantage in terms of its photostability rate.

“Essentially, all sunscreens degrade once they are applied. This is why we all need to reapply sunscreen throughout the day. Mexoryl degrades slower than Parsol 1789, allowing it to retain its protective ability and potency longer.

If you’d rather not splurge on your sunscreens, Neutrogena’s line of sunscreens now feature a complex called Helioplex, which is earning strong reviews from dermatologists for its photostability. Avobenzone, the active ingredient in sunscreen, usually loses potency after about an hour; in Helioplex products, they remain stable for five.”

So remember….
1. Pick a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB rays and has an SPF of at least 15.

2. Look for a sunscreen with added antioxidants for better protection.

3. Don’t forget your hands, neck and chest. These parts of our bodies age like our face and need to be protected on a daily basis as well.

4. Try a sunscreen with different chemicals if your skin reacts badly to the one that you are using (i.e. PABA) or use a physical sunblock (i.e. zinc oxide).

5. Look for a waterproof brand if you will be sweating or swimming and make sure it’s nonstinging if you’re putting it on your face.

6. Apply sunscreen approximately 30 minutes before going out in the sun. This will allow it to be absorbed into the skin and be less likely to wash off when you perspire.

7. Remember to reapply sunscreen after swimming or strenuous exercise (or every two hours).

8. Use a water-based sunscreen if you have oily skin or acne-prone skin.

9. Check the expiration date because some sunscreen ingredients degrade over time.

10. Since no sunscreen can provide 100% protection from the sun’s damaging rays, avoiding the sun at noon, plus and minus 2 hours, is a good idea. This is when the UVB is at its peak.

Now go outside and have some fun in the sun!!

~tcb

Never miss a post!
• Click here to subscribe via RSS feed
• Click here to subscribe via email